Thinking of going on a silent meditation retreat? Check out these 5 vipassana centers
I still remember the day I entered my first silent meditation retreat. I had recently graduated from the University of California, Davis, and had capped off a stellar academic career with a less-than stellar existential crisis. Why? I was anxious all the time and felt like my brain would just never shut off.I couldn't stop planning for the future, or replaying the past.
I wondered if I was ever going to be truly happy.
That existential crisis turned out to be the best thing that ever happened to me. It led me to the foothills of the Himalayas in northern India and to my first silent meditation retreat. That retreat changed my life and sent me down a path of well-being that I am still on today.
If you've ever been interested in going on a silent retreat yourself, but you're not sure how to get started, then this post is for you. I'll recommend a few of the places I've been to personally, as well as a few that I know of that have good reputations. These recommendations are all are in the vipassana style, which I find most appealing for its rationality and secularity. If you're into science and rational thinking, chances are you'll like these places too.
Of course, there are many other styles of meditation out there. If you feel I've missed your favorite retreat center, please feel free to recommend it in the comments below!
If you're looking for a more detailed description of some of the emotional aspects of going on a retreat, you may want to check out another post I wrote, What I Learned From 10 Days of Silence.
Without further ado, here are 5 places to get started on your meditation retreat journey.
Spirit Rock & the Insight Meditation Society
The first two places I'll recommend are so similar, that it makes more sense to write about them together. These are the Spirit Rock Meditation Center in California (seen in the feature photo at the heading of this post), and the Insight Meditation Society (IMS) in Massachussetts. Both of these centers focus primarily on "insight meditation", or vipassana.
But what makes these "Western vipassana" centers so great is the exceptional quality of the teachers, who skillfully blend ancient wisdom teachings with modern understandings of science, social justice, and environmentalism. In any given retreat you might hear a Sufi poem followed by the latest research findings in neuroscience. You will meet teachers with deep understanding of issues related to social justice and gender equality.
On top of that, at these centers there is much more emphasis on kindness and self-compassion, which can be lacking in some of the Asian vipassana centers.
Another positive aspect of these centers is the accommodation. I've slept in some retreat centers around the world where you have to deal with giant spiders and poisonous house centipedes the size of your face. But Spirit Rock and IMS are clean as a whistle! And don't even get me started on the food! Healthy, vegetarian meals that are tastier than grandma's home cooking.
So, what's the downside? Maybe you already guessed, it's the price. A 7-day retreat can cost you anywhere from $500-$800. And the longer retreats can be more than $1,000. That being said, when it comes to something as profound and life-changing as silent meditation retreat, it's honestly worth every penny.
Besides, you're paying for world-class teachers with decades of teaching experience (not to mention the delicious food!). If cost is an issue, they also have a number of different scholarships available.
Conclusion: Spirit Rock and IMS are two of the best retreat centers in the world. If you can afford it, it's worth every single penny.
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Goenka vipassana retreat centers
One of the most famous retreat courses in the world is the Goenka-style vipassana retreat. If you hear someone saying they did a "10-day vipassana retreat", there's a good chance they're talking about Goenka. My own first silent retreat in India was at a Goenka center, as well as the one I did last year in Thailand.
Is the Goenka retreat right for you? Well, it depends…
What's great about the Goenka course is that it's entirely free. It is a donation-based center that runs on volunteer support. At the end of the retreat you can choose to donate if you wish.
Another great aspect is location, or rather, locations – there are hundreds of Goenka centers all over the world, so it's easy to find one near you.
But what I appreciate most of all about the Goenka tradition is that it is secular and highly systematic. This is not a Buddhist center, where you need to believe in reincarnation, or chant mantras (although you will have to listen to a recording of Goenka-ji chanting in Pali… but that's as bad as it gets). Instead, the teachings at this center focus on understanding your mind and developing an awareness of your body.
So what's the downside of the Goenka retreat? I can sum it up in one word: Bootcamp. The Goenka retreat is very intense, particularly if you are new to meditation. It's all sitting meditation (no walking meditation periods) from about 4am until 9pm, with some of the sitting periods lasting an hour and a half or more.
To add on to that intensity, towards the middle of the retreat, they start implementing the "sittings of strong determination," where you try your best to sit without adjusting your posture. This can be a skillful practice, if you know how to sit with difficulty, and are intent on cultivating patience, self-compassion, and equanimity… but if you are just starting, it can be tough to work with pain in that way.
Conclusion: Goenka is great for the budget-conscious backpackers or those seeking a intense meditation bootcamp. But if you're looking for a kind and gentle approach, you may want to consider elsewhere!
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Vipassana Hawaii retreats around the world
If IMS and Spirit Rock sounded good to you, but you find it hard to make it to either California or Massachusetts, you can check out the retreats on the Vipassana Hawaii website.
Founded by Michelle MacDonald and Steven Smith in the 1980's, Vipassana Hawaii offers retreats in very much the same style as both Spirit Rock and IMS. While the center is based in Hawaii, the teachers actually travel all over the world, and you can find retreat offerings in places like Canada, New Mexico, Australia, Thailand, and even Myanmar.
Rather than trying to describe all the various retreats they offer, I will point out one in particular that is great for a first retreat. The "Lake Retreat" is located in the middle of a lake in a national park in Thailand. The teachers are incredible, and the scenery is breathtaking. What's more, you will also have time throughout the day to go for a mindful swim in the lake, or get a Thai massage.
Conclusion: Try the Lake Retreat if you like the sound of the Western vipassana style, but you feel like practicing in a more exotic location.
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Wat Marp Jan in Thailand
If you're interested in having a bit more of a rustic experience, and you don't mind staying at a traditional Buddhist temple, then you should check out Wat Marp Jan in Thailand.
Wat Marp Jan is a Buddhist temple in the Thai Forest tradition of Ajahn Chah, meaning it is of the less-superstitious variety of Buddhism (that's my own opinion at least, not the official description!). In the Thai Forest tradition you will still hear some references to ideas like karma and rebirth, but in general it's more focused on the practice of meditation and understanding your mind.
Located just northeast of a small fishing village called Ban Phe, Wat Marp Jan is a little over 2 hours drive from Bangkok by bus. It's nestled up in the hills, far away from the city lights and bustling traffic noise. It's truly one of the most peaceful places I've visited in Thailand.
Somewhat surprisingly, Wat Marp Jan has a large number of western monks, meaning you can get great meditation instructions by chatting with the monk. However, at this temple there are no actual retreat courses (e.g. no 10-day programs). Instead, if you want to stay and practice on retreat at Wat Marp Jan, it will be as a self-retreat. You simply contact the temple and tell them how long you want to stay.
Another thing to understand is that a self-retreat at Wat Marp Jan won't be an entirely silent retreat. You will be required to do chores, sweep the grounds, clean up after the meals, etc. And this sometimes involves communicating with the other yogis and monks. Additionally, if you want to bring meditation books, you are allowed to read in your spare time (just meditation books though, no novels). Depending on what you're looking for, this can be either a pro or a con.
If you're interested in staying at Wat Marp Jan, you can find more information on their website here. You'll have to send an email before showing up, as they don't allow drop-in guests.
Conclusion: Wat Marp Jan is a semi-silent retreat, and more geared towards those who are interested in Buddhist philosophy and what monastic life is like in Thailand. Still, it's a great way to take a break from technology for a week or two!
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There you have it. My recommendations for the 5 best places to go for your first silent meditation retreat. In the next post, I'll be sharing tips from experienced meditators on how to prepare for your first retreat – don't miss it! Sign up for the newsletter if you want the blogs delivered straight to your inbox!